Upper Dolpo Trek - Visit the Bon Kingdom

Upper Dolpo Trek - Visit the Bon Kingdom

Dolpo is one of the most remote regions of Nepal, situated between the high Tibetan Plateau and the Dhaulagiri mountain ranges of western Nepal. This remote, rugged and high altitude region is one of the least visited places in Nepal and offers a unique experience for trekkers with striking, vast landscapes, rich local Tibetan culture and moderate to challenging trekking routes.

Dolpo only opened to outsiders from the 1990s and remains an isolated and remote region, sparsely populated and an off the beaten track route for travellers. Here you’ll see ancient Bon (pre-dating Buddhism) monasteries and stupa, simple fortified villages and high nomadic camps. The landscape ranges from rich fertile valleys to arid plateaus, steep slopes, snow tipped peaks, river valleys and beautiful Phuksumdo lake.

Crystal Mountain (sometimes known as the younger brother of Mount Kailash in Tibet) is one of the holy Himalayan pilgrimage routes, with legendary connections to Buddhism.

Join this beautiful trek to experience wonderful high Himalayan landscapes and rich local culture in a place less visited.

Itinerary

• Day 01

  Arrive Kathmandu (1300m).

  Namaste and welcome to Nepal! On arrival to Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport you'll be met by our local team for the short drive to your hotel. After checking in you'll meet your guide who will provide a brief orientation of the hotel and the surrounding area as well as a briefing about your trek and camping arrangements and other related information that you might require while in Nepal. The rest of your day is free to relax. This evening we invite you to a complimentary welcome dinner at one of Kathmandu's finest traditional restaurants. Overnight Kathmandu, 5 star hotel.

• Day 02

  Guided tour Kathmandu

  Enjoy a full day guided tour and introduction to some of the key sites of Kathmandu today.  You'll visit three World Heritage Sites including Boudha, the centre of Tibetan culture in Nepal, as well as the Hindu temple complex of Pashupati on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. You'll also have a chance to explore impressive Kathmandu Durbar Square. Enjoy the serene ambiance at Boudha, a dome shaped Buddhist stupa built around the 5th century. This is the biggest stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world. There's a range of small shops, cafes and monasteries around the large stupa which you'll have time to explore. From here we visit Pashupati, an important temple complex and also a sacred cremation site.  Your final visit today is to central Kathmandu Durbar Square, a large palace square in the heart of Kathmandu valley, which includes the palace museum, and perhaps a chance to get the glimpse of the Living Goddess, Kumari who resides within the palace complex. After time to explore we'll head back to your hotel where the rest of your evening is at leisure to rest and relax. If you've forgotten anything you need for the trek, today or this evening is a good time to get them with everything being available in nearby Thamel. Overnight Kathmandu, 5 star hotel. 

• Day 03

  Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (150m)

  This morning you'll be picked up for the short drive to the domestic airport for your flight to Nepalgunj. Flight time is around one and a half hour scenic flight. You'll be met on arrival for the transfer to your hotel. We'll also have time in the late afternoon or evening to have a look around the town which is situated on the southern Nepal border with India. Nepalgunj is at low altitude, just 150m and it's quite hot and tropical in character. Overnight at a good 3 star local hotel.

  
  

• Day 04

  Fly Nepalgunj to Jhuphal (2500m)

  After a pleasant overnight at Nepalgunj, this morning it's a short trip back to the airport and another short and scenic flight of around 45 minutes to Jhuphal (2500m) to begin the first day of your trek and your first day in Dolpo. The flight takes us over the Himalayan foothills, with views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks to the north. On arriving at Jhuphal our trekking team will be there to meet you, having already trekked from Nepalgunj with all the camping gear and food supply for the trek. It's a short walk today, from the airstrip to the main village of Dunai (2,850m) beginning with an hour's downhill trek through the village below the airstrip, then leading through terraced fields to the Bheri River and the narrow gorge, taking around 2-3 hours to reach our camp at Dunai. Dunai is a much larger village or a small township, with a new hospital and is the main administrative headquarters of the Dolpo region.  The rest of the evening is free to rest and relax ready for tomorrow. Overnight at tented camp at Dunai.

  
  

• Day 05

  Trek to Ankhe (2896m)

  Today will be around 5-6 hrs trek to reach Ankhe. From our camp at Dunai, the route takes us from the King Mahendra statue across the new suspension bridge before we turn west, following the trail past the hospital. The path soon begins to climb up the side of the treeless Thulo Bheri Valley, where it crests a ridge and then enters the Phoksumdo river valley, finally reaching another ridge which is marked by cairns at 2,499m. From here there are excellent views of the Kagmara Peak up the valley. This wonderful walk leads to a large side canyon, which then descends gently on the long downhill slope through scattered houses and walnut groves to a stream at 2,810m. The trail below the stream leads to Dhera, a winter settlement where people from higher villages keep herds of cows and goats. However our route leads towards the upper trail climbing to Rahagaon, a Thakuri village at 2,900m. Here there's a small Gompa (monastery) dedicated to the local god, Mastha, who is guardian of this village. From here the trek route passes through the lower part of Rahagaon and then descends to the village water supply at the Phuksumdo khola (river). Passing through another canyon, the path heads downhill through deep dark forests to a large stream, finally emerging at the entrance to the Shey Phoksumdo National Park at Ankhe where we'll camp overnight. Evening at lesisure to rest and relax. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 06

  Trek to Sulighat (3500m)

  This is another 5-6 hour trek today, to reach Sulighat. The path from this camp leads begins with a series of small ascents and descents along the forested riverbed, before it starts ascending steeply to around 2,900m. There are several streams along the way that offer a chance to cool off along the ascending and descending . The trail eventually leaves the forests and traverses a grassy slope high above the river. After a while the path once again begins to descend steeply into forest until it reaches a cliff, where there's a challenging stone staircase down to the river bank that has to be undertaken. You can almost look down between your toes to see the fast-flowing river below. After carefully reaching the river at 2,950m, the trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks that form a dyke along the river bank. It's hard to imagine how the local people bring their yaks and cows along this trail, but they do. Our journey continues upstream to a bridge near Ryajik village for our next overnight camp and a chance to rest after a good day's walk. These three villages that this part of the trek passes through, including Ankhe, have a strange name connection: Parela, meaning eyelash, Rahagaon meaning eyebrow, and Ankhe meaning eye. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 07

  Trek to Phoksumdo Lake (3500m)

  Today we'll trek to beautiful Phoksumdo Lake, around 4-5 hrs. Our journey continues along the valley floor to reach the confluence of the Phoksumdo and Pungmo Kholas (rivers). After crossing to the western side of the Phuksumdo river on a wooden bridge, the path then follows the west bank of the Pungmo river which leads all the way to Phuksumdo Lake near Ringmo village. The path passes through a cedar forest and finally to Palam, a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The houses here are traditional local style and are almost buried in the sandy soil. From here our route heads up to open country, at an altitude of around 3,350m. From the ridge one can see the distant views of Phuksumdo Lake and a spectacular 300m high waterfall, one of the highest in Nepal. After a brief stop here to enjoy the great views, finally the trail descends through birch forests to the upper reaches of the Phuksumdo river, and then to the picturesque settlement of Ringmo with its mud plastered chortens and mani (prayer stone) walls. From here it's a short walk to the shores of Phoksumdo Lake and our overnight camp.

• Day 08

  Rest day at Phoksumdo Lake

  Today is a well deserved rest and acclimatisation day at Phoksumdo Lake, so there's no need to pack this morning. We can explore the local area and it's a short hike to the village of Ringmo for a look around and to visit the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery. The rest of today is free to rest and relax. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 09

  Trek to Phuksumdo Khola (3507m)

  It's quite a short day today, around 4-5 hours trek to Phuksumdo Khola at 3,507m. From Phuksumdo we begin by skirting the shore of the lake as it contours on a rocky ledge along the western bank. This is a fairly rough trail suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the rocks, and shows the remoteness of the area we are about to enter. At the westernmost edge of the lake the path leads through a lush meadow that opens up into the flood plain of the Phoksumdo Khola (river). Then the trail leads through the valley, criss-crossing the river and avoiding the occasional boggy marsh underfoot and then coming up onto the bank of the river for our overnight camp. We'll take it slow and steady and enjoy the views. Rest of the day to rest and relax. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 10

  Trek to Phoksumdo Bhanjyang (3910m)

  Today's trek to Phoksumdo Bhanjyang at around 3,910m will take us approximately 6-7 hrs. The first hour of our walk leads along the level path through a glacial valley that now heads due north. At the confluence of the Phoksumdo river and another mountain stream, there's an old wooden bridge and from here we take the barely distinct path to the north-east of the valley. There is no trail as such, so it is necessary to clamber over the rocks and boulders and to ford a stream that rushes down the steep valley. A long climb brings us up to a sheep meadow where the trail veers up a steep ravine. A hard climb to the top brings us to yet another valley where one can see the Kang-La, the pass which will lead us towards Shey Gompa and the location for the festival. Overnight camp will be just before the pass in a place that author Peter Matthiessen christened 'Snowfields Camp' in his book Snow Leopard where he talked of his trip to Crystal Mountain Monastery (Shey Gompa) as a true pilgrimage to the heart. 

• Day 11

  Trek to Shey Gompa (4500m)

  Today we trek to Shey Gompa (monastery) at 4,500m via the high Kang-La pass at 5,360m, taking around 5-6 hrs. This morning the trail leads up to a steep climb littered with slate towards the mountain pass. The climb is quite strenuous, especially on the slate scree. From the top of Kang-la (la meaning pass) there are excellent views down across a large valley which is bisected by a gushing river. On descending steeply to the valley floor, the path then leads a long meandering trek along the banks of the river, crossing and re-crossing it several times. There are mud caves lining the hills overlooking the river and we pass through meadows where hairy yaks, hundreds of sheep and domestic mountain goats (Chengra) can be found grazing as well near the odd nomadic hut of the herders. A red chorten heralds our arrival at Shey Gompa where a quaint wooden, log bridge leads up to our destination at Shey Gompa compound for our overnight camp. Shey Gompa stands above the confluence of Kangjunala and Yeju Nala rivers. Rest of the day free to relax and explore locally to see the preparations for the opening ceremonies of the festival tomorrow. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 12

  Trek to Namduna Gaon (4800m)

  Today we trek to Namduna Gaon via the Saldang La pass at 5,200m, taking around 6-7 hrs in total. The day begins by following a pleasant trail amidst juniper which descends into a grey, stony canyon. Then the path begins to zig zag over bare rocks and coarse eroded soil until it eventually brings us to the top of Saldang-la. The subsequent descent towards the north is long and tiring but we finally come upon the welcome sight of pastures of grazing yaks and sheep, and nomadic tents made from yak hair. This signals our approach to Namduna Gaon. Like Shey, the Namgung monastery is of the Karma-pa sect. The monastery, a red stone structure, is built against the backdrop of a cliff on the north wall of a gorge. The red and white colours of the gompa and its stupas are the only colour in this stark landscape. The village itself consists of only six stone houses and has terraced fields on both sides of the tributary, which flow down to the Nam Khong valley. The economy of the region is based on agriculture, animal husbandry and trading. In Dolpo only one crop a year can be grown and this is mainly barley and in some villages’ buckwheat, oil seed, potato and radish are also cultivated. Recently the main cliff temple collapsed and the villagers have now built a beautiful new monastery in the village itself. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 13

  Trek to Saldang (3620m)

  The trek to Saldang will take around 4-5 hrs today. On leaving the Namduna Gaon, our route leads to a climb up a scree slope. Further on it begins a long traverse along some dusty barren mountains. After 3-4 hours of hard climb, Saldang appears below us on a plateau high above the Nam Khong valley. With a picturesque appearance, Saldang is the largest village of the inner Dolpo area. Though the village lies at about the same altitude as Ringmo it is totally different to Ringmo, which is a Himalayan village situated below the tree line whereas Saldang belongs to the arid zone of the Trans-Himalayan Tibetan plateau. The village stretches for nearly two kilometers on an open slope. Saldang actually consists of five villages having around eighty well built houses with nearly six hundred people. It's a prosperous village not only agriculturally but also for its strategic location on a trade route to Tibet. After the Chinese takeover of Tibet in 1959, trade with Tibet was virtually stopped but has now been restored to some extent through the barter system by which Tibetan salt reaches mid-Nepal. The Drokpa people from the western plains of Tibet collect salt from the dried lakes north of Tsangpo. Reaching Saldang, the rest of today is free to explore locally and rest and relax. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 14

  Trek to Yangze Gompa (4960m)

  Today we head to Yangze Gompa (monastery) at 4,960m and around a 4-5 hrs journey. From here the trek route diverts further into the far north and into the least explored area by westerners or by any commercial adventure trekking companies. The trail follows the Nang Chu river most of the way on this wild, barren and windswept terrain. The trek begins along the fairly gradual path with a few ascents and descents before passing through the small settlement of Tiling and Lurigaon to reach our overnight camp at Yangze also known as Yangtsher, just before Yangze near Lurigaon. Here we cross the tributary Panzang river, and a short walk from here brings us to an unexplored region of Yangze and its very old Bon-Po Monastery. We'll have plenty of time to explore around the village and the monastery. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 15

  Trek to Sibu (4,560m)

  Today is a longer day of around 6-7 hours trek. From Yangze there are two trails that connect to Sibu - the longer route heads due west passing through the very remote villages of Nishalgaon and further past Shimengaon. To save time and energy we will retrace the path back towards Saldang village which will be much easier and shorter than the north western route. From Saldang the trail follows the river bed and we pass through terraced fields, past stupas, chortens, heaps of mani (prayer) stones and a Chaiba monastery, before then passing through Namdo village. Namdo is also a prosperous village with around sixty houses and nearly 400 inhabitants. It stretches for more than 5 km on the high slopes to the left of Nam Khong Khola (river). The Namdo monastery is located near the river. Our journey continues further down the river for another two hours to camp near the small settlement of Sibu. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 16

  Trek to Jeng -la Phedi (4900m)

  Today we follow the trail to Jeng-la Phedi, taking around 5-6 hours. The trail follows the Nam Khong river for a while on the morning walk and we may come across caravans of laden yaks that are on their way towards the Tibet border to trade. After days of following the same river, finally we part company with it, turning east until we arrive at the confluence of two small tributaries. From here our walk leads to a steep climb to the bottom of Jeng la pass, where we'll rest and stay overnight on a nice meadow. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 17

  Trek to Tokyu Gaon (4200m)

  Today's route takes us to Tokyu Gaon via the Jeng la pass at 5,090m and taking around 5-6 hours in total. Our morning trek begins with around two hours climb towards the top of the Jeng La. From the top of the pass you'll have excellent views of the snow ranges emerging to the south whilst the north face of the Dhaualgiri massif shines in the morning light. After a wonderful moment here to enjoy the stunning views, we leave the pass and descend on the rough path towards Tarap valley. By the afternoon we'll come to the green valley which leads us on a pleasant track down towards Tarap Chu. Tarap is a fascinating and striking valley with vast plains and high mountains. It extends twenty kilometers along the river. Tarap Chu has ten villages with cultivated fields and many small gompas (monasteries) and chortens of both sects. We stop for the night at Tokyu monastery which belongs to the Chaiba sect. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 18

  Trek to Dho Tarap (4,040m)

  A nice short day today as we trek to Dho Tarap, taking around 4-5 hours. Today, the route leads eastwards along the downhill course of the Tarap Chu in a plain valley with patches of lush verdant grass on both sides of the river, which is completely different from other parts of inner Dolpo. There is also a marsh which is a common feature in the Desert Mountains of Tibet and the Ladakh Himalaya of India. In this valley both Bon Po and Chaiba sects reside together in harmony. After a short trek through this beautiful valley we come to Dho Tarap for our overnight camp with ample time to visit around the village. This village is surrounded by an irregular stone wall. At Dho, about 34 houses are divided into three clusters and built in a haphazard way, inhabited by a few Tibetans and mostly the Magars hill tribe of Nepal who have lived here for many generations. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 19

  Rest Day at Dho Tarap

  Today is a rest day for local exploration, and an opportunity to meet and make friends with the people from Dolpo. The local people wear home spun clothing that is sometimes dyed maroon and they prefer Tibetan style somba (boots with upturned toes) for footwear. Men and women often wear both religious amulets and strings of coral and turquoise. The villagers are both Bon Po and Buddhist of the Nyingmapa sect. The Buddhist gompa is the nearest one to the campsite, the Bon Gompa is further 40 minutes walk and you'll be able to visit both if you wish. Overnight at tented camp.

  
  

• Day 20

  Trek to Tarap Khola (Kamakharka) (3,800m)

  Today's trek is around 6 to 7 hours. This can be quite a long day or a more moderate walk depending upon the choice of several different campsites we have so the itinerary can be as flexible as you like, depending on how you feel. From the quite bare country around Tarap, we descend towards a wide valley which eventually narrows into a gorge. We walk along through juniper bushes and wild rose, typical of the dry inner Himalayan valleys, to just above the tree line. On this route we might see herds of blue sheep. By the afternoon we'll reach the confluence of the Tarap Chu and the Lang Khola, a stream that joins with Tarap River from further east. We'll make our camp on a nice meadow where we can rest and relax. Our porters will perhaps take shelter in a nearby spacious cave instead. This place is also known as Kamakharka. Overnight at tented camp.
  

  
  

• Day 21

  Trek to Kharigaon (3,150m)

  Our trek continues today, for around 5 hours. We head down the gorge of the Tarap river, at times alongside it, then rising high above on a trail built from the steep slopes. We may come across people from Dolpo taking their herds to the lower pastures for the winter. Here there are many possible campsites by the river. This is one of the exciting and intrepid days of the trek as the valley becomes so narrow in a deep gorge that in some places we can jump from one side to another. Sometimes there is no trace of any path and we have to walk across stone slabs fitted on logs in between the walls which act as a bridge. The gorge also provides unexpected adventure and thrills. At some places, the bridges are either damaged or washed away and we may be forced to carefully cross the icy torrent on foot before we finally reach the overnight camping spot beside the Tarapkhola at Kharigaon. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 22

  Trek to Tarakot (2,850m)

  It's another nice day's trek of around 5 hours today. From our camp, the path follows an indistinct trail to the village of Lalberi. From here we pass through an area of impressive forest, before descending into another gorge. We'll continue following the river again downstream to reach Tarakot where colourful terraced fields greet us. Tarakot is an old fortress town known by the local people as Dzong, meaning 'fort'. Before the Gorkha dynasty of Nepal, Tarakot was the capital and had a dzong (fortress). The famous Sandul Gompa (monastery) lies about 8 km east of Tarakot, at the junction of Barbung Khola and Tarap Chu. It stands on a knoll to the south of Bheri river and at one time supervised collections of tolls for the trading caravans traversing an area called Tichu Rong. It is possible to camp by the river about 150m below Tarakot, near the police post or we can climb a steep hill for over an hour to the small village on a spur on the other side of a valley opposite Tarakot. There are chortens and a gompa here on the edge of a grassy plateau, with an interesting looking solitary tree. Overnight at tented camp.

• Day 23

  Trek to Dunai (2850m)

  Today we come towards the end of our trek as we head to Dunai, around 16 kms and 6 hours. The route continues beside the Bheri river in a tremendous gorge with pine trees and an ingenious path built about seven meters above the river. On reaching Dunai and having completed this wonderful trek and joined in the Shey Festival, we have time to celebrate your achievement as bottled beer is available here or the brave can try the local brew! Overnight at tented camp. 

• Day 24

  Trek to Jhuphal (2500m)

  Today we trek to Jhuphal, a short 2 to 3 hours as we retrace the journey back to Jhuphal, along the Bheri river to the small airstrip for the last overnight camp of this memorable adventure.   This will be your last night with your trek crew so it's time for goodbyes as well. Overnight at tented camp.

  
  

  Please note - the above itinerary should be taken only as a guide; it could change due to weather, availability of clean water and campsite, trail conditions or any other unforeseen conditions. Some of the days on the above itinerary are short walks and some days are longer this may be varied slightly and can be worked out on trek as per the duration of the itinerary days, depending on local conditions and how you feel during the trek.

  
  

• Day 25

  Fly Jhuphal – Nepalgunj – Kathmandu

  Early this morning, it's time for the short scenic flight back to Nepalgunj, over the Himalayan foothills with stunning views of the main peaks including Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to the north. On arrival at Nepalgunj depending upon the connecting flight schedule to Kathmandu, we may (if taking an afternoon flight) have time for a few hours refreshment in the comfort of the Hotel Batika at Nepalgunj before connecting with the flight back to Kathmandu. Arriving into Kathmandu, you'll be met on arrival for the transfer and check in to your 5 star hotel, with the rest of your day free to rest and relax or explore locally. Overnight Kathmandu, 5 star hotel.

• Day 26

  Kathmandu, at leisure

  Today is a full day at leisure to explore Kathmandu, to rest and relax at your hotel, buy any last minute gifts or souvenirs in nearby Thamel. There are also various optional activities available such as a scenic mountain flight to view Everest and the surrounding peaks, a guided tour of the Kathmandu Valley, a visit to the peaceful hillstation of Dhulikhel or more adrenaline filled extension trip activities such as white water rafting, zip lining, bungy jumps or longer trip extensions such as a few days wildlife safari. Ask our local team for details and they'll be happy to help or ask at the time of booking for more information. Overnight Kathmandu, 5 star hotel.

• Day 27

  Depart Kathmandu.

  Today you'll be transferred to the airport for your departure flight home or onwards to your next destination or to start any extension trips you may have booked.